Snoqualmie Bitter Without Body
I am fond of a red wine that lets its presence be known. I like to feel the way that the texture of my tongue adapts to a good dry wine that knows how to exert itself within my mouth, rolling through with a very slight initial sweetness to be replaced with a touch of sandpaper.
Snoqualmie’s 2006 merlot is not such a wine. It’s got the rasp down pat, but there’s no berry to go with it. Instead, I start out with a sharp, bitter taste, which passes straight to harsh without anything in between.
This wine isn’t bad, really. It’s just lacking – lacking in body. When I say body, I refer to the sense that a wine fills up the mouth with elevating sensations. It’s the impression of thickness in a liquid that is, of course, literally thin. A wine with body gives me the feeling of a capital O in my mouth. Snowqualmie 2006 merlot doesn’t reach that full inflation. It’s more like just an eeuhhh.
That said, Snowqualmie really does have an excellent label. The old red tractor is great, and the painted lines of the sky above are great at evoking late summer. I like the font too – and hey, a real cork is a plus!
Still, I bought a bottle of wine. Wine. I was hoping for just a bit more.